Altered Flounce Sleeve on the Be Dreamy Dress

Nine more yards of double brushed poly await my three remaining versions of the Be Dreamy Dress, but first: version 2, featuring a slightly altered flounce sleeve.

About the Fabric

MAIN: 3 yards of Ivory/Purple Beachy Tie Dye from So Sew English

  • 96% POLYESTER / 4% SPANDEX
  • Medium weight
  • 4 – WAY stretch – 80% Horizontal / 40% Vertical

LINING: Offwhite Double Brushed Poly Spandex Knit from Cali Fabrics

  • FABRIC CONTENT: 96% Polyester/4% Lycra
  • STRETCH: 4-way 150%
  • WEIGHT: 5.5oz (Light Midweight)

I bought two yards of the solid offwhite DBP from Cali Fabrics to save a little dough. There’s no real need to use the more expensive prints for the bodice lining. The solid offwhite works great.

About This Make

  • Size XS
  • +1″ to skirt
  • +1″ to bodice
  • altered flounce sleeve
  • high-low hemline

Why did I decide to alter the sleeve? Curiosity mostly. The original is a perfect circle, and I wondered about tweaking it so the flounce would be shorter under the arm and longer over the shoulder. So that’s what I did:

  1. Traced out the original pattern piece. The original pattern piece is cut on two folds, so I traced it out twice in order to cut the new piece on one fold since it would be an oblong shape.
  2. Subtracted 2″ from the “underside” of the flounce and added it to the opposite end, then redrew the curve.

Left: redrafted long flounce sleeve; Right: original long flounce sleeve

 

What I Did Differently

  • Edited the flounce sleeve as described above.
  • Rounded the angles where the front skirt meets the back skirt by eyeballing and cutting with my rotary cutter, which made for a prettier hem than version 1. Still not perfect, but better.

Project Settings

Serge vs. Sewing Machine

Serger
Sewing Machine
  • flounce attach
  • skirt construction
  • bodice/skirt attach
  • shoulder seams
  • hidden seams (bodice side seams, neckline)

Sewing Machine Settings

Presser Foot
Stitch#
Width
Length
Needle
Top Thread Tension
Application
standard zig-zag (A)
5
1.0
4
blue tip
4
seams / hem

Serger Settings

Stitch
Needles
Finger
Threads
Tension LN
Tension RN
Tension UL
Tension LL
Cut Width
Stitch Length
Differential
super stretch
R, L
B
3
2.5
2.5
0.5
6
3.5
1

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Posted in Project Recaps, Sewing, The Things I've Made • May 12, 2022 | No Comments»

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