I have the work-appropriate version, and here now is the “me” version of this dress with all the fun details.
About the Fabric
I need to start off here because droooool…. Batiks. I love batiks. And this particular fabric is a hand-dyed Indonesian cotton batik . I have another print waiting in the wings as I decide what it wants to be.
Main and Lining: 4 yards Olive and Brown Floral Authentic Indonesian Batik from Cali Fabrics
- FABRIC CONTENT: 100% Cotton
- FABRIC WIDTH: 45″
- WEIGHT: Lightweight
- STRETCH: None
Dreamy sigh. It’s so beautiful. The print, the craftsmanship that goes into batiks. It also happens to be very comfortable to wear. I’m ready for a 90-degree day to try it out; I’m sure it’s going to feel amazing.
Pockets: leftover Port Royale Satin with Fine Faille Backing from Mood Fabrics. I had used this fabric for a scarf I made for my mom and rediscovered the remnants for some silky smooth pockets.
- Fabric Width 57″
- Content: Acetate, Cotton
- Stretch: none
Notions: buttons are 0.75″ and came from Hobby Lobby; drawstring beads are something I had lying around from a brief flirtation with jewelry-making.
About the Pattern
McCall’s M7950, View A (and I just realized I labeled all my pattern pieces with View B, but NBD. The only difference I think is the scalloped hem.)
- Size 12 graded to 14 at waist and below
The trickiest part about this one was the interaction between the skirt facing and the bodice. You sew the facing to the skirt along the long edge and then a little ways along the top edge to a marked circle. When attaching the bodice, you butt the bodice edges up against that top edge facing seam. It works well to have the facing inside out and then you sandwich the bodice in between the facing and the skirt. It’s hard to describe in words and even worse trying to decipher from a typical McCall’s hieroglyphical sketch. Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo to share, either.
What I Did Differently
- Shortened shoulder straps by 1.25″
- Added semicircle bra pad inserts, anchored between the bodice lining and main fabric
- Topstitched the entire bodice edge (vs. fighting to understitch)
- Added 6 eyelets and a drawstring to the front opening
- Drawstring pattern piece was 1″ x 23.5″, sewn with a 1/4″ seam allowance for a final size of 1/4″ x 23.5″ (I just tied off the ends.)
Yep, the front drawstring was basically a must. While the line drawing of this dress looks just peachy, the whole story changes when you put it on a human body and that human body moves around. Holy gaptastic, batman. As I evaluated in front of the mirror, all became right when I added some tension along the front opening. Enter the glorious eyelet and drawstring. Not only does it shift this dress from a peepshow nightmare to a tasteful peekaboo, it adds some really helpful shaping.
I used a total of six 1/4″ eyelets in nickel, 3 on each side, spaced 1.5″ apart and 0.5″ from the edge. I use a setting of 3.5 on my leather hole punch to pierce the fabric before hammering the eyelets on.
And how can you beat a built-in bra, especially in a design like this which is inherently bra-unfriendly? You can’t.
Verdict
I don’t think I would’ve been particularly thrilled with this dress without the mods I made. I absolutely adore it, and I really love my work-friendly version, too (waiting on buttons before I can share that one! The fabric for it is adorbs.)
Maybe the lesson here is all the potential of Big Four patterns lies in the way you can make it your own.
Notes for Next Time
- Bump the bra inserts down just a smidge (1/4-1/2″?)
- This would be fun at a maxi length.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 1 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | seams |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 5 | 90/14 | 4 | baste |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | bra pad tack |
| 1/4" | 1 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | drawstring |
| button foot (T) | 6 | 5.5 | drop feed | 90/14 | 4 | buttons |
| adjustable edge (SE#3) | 1 | 0 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | understitch |
| adjustable edge (SE#8) | 0 | 0 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | hem |
| adjustable edge (SE#8) | 1 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | topstitch |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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