This past May, I was selected as a strike-off sewist for Boho Fabrics
My first strike is this blue rayon spandex, which I decided to use for a Babydoll Top to let that drape shine.
About the Fabric
Ice Blue, Solid Rayon Spandex Knit Fabric from Boho Fabrics
- Weight: 10.2 oz,
- Width: 60-62″
- Horizontal Stretch: 85%
- Vertical Stretch: 65%
It’s a lovely rayon spandex, though. The opacity on it is great and, as you can see, the drape on it is just beautiful. It also behaves really well when sewing.
About the Pattern
- size 32 (I think. I’m too lazy to go upstairs and check right now.)
This pattern is crazy simple to sew. I don’t love the facing on such a fluid fabric like rayon spandex which tends to cling/show anything layered beneath it, but I wanted to keep it light and summery and a full lining would’ve bulked it up too much.
The pattern itself is a little odd, and I didn’t realize that at the time I first got it (way back in 2019). The sizes aren’t layered on top of each other, so you weirdly have to print out multiple sizes separately if you want to grade.
What I Did Differently
- I decided to dress it up / overcomplicate it by including one of the free appliques I’ve gotten with past Boho Fabrics orders. I didn’t stitch it all the way down; I only stitched it into the shoulder seams and then five short tacks on the back.
- I cut the bodice pieces on the fold and followed the grain of the fabric instead of the bias. The pattern does mention this as a variant with a warning about it changing the way the fabric hangs, but I’m completely happy with how it turned out.
- I did not finish the raw edges of the facing. It’s not entirely necessary on knit fabric which doesn’t fray, and I wanted to avoid the texture of a serged edge showing through the top layer of fabric.
- I also didn’t hem. I love a raw edge on a silhouette like this to really let the fabric hang free.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | seams |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 5 | blue tip | 4 | strap attach / facing anchor |
| adjustable edge (SE#10) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | topstitch |
| applique (F) | 0 | 3.5 | 2.4 | blue tip | 4 | applique anchor |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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