My mom has a purple cardigan she absolutely loves and she’s had it for many moons. So many moons that it’s beginning to grow holes. So for her birthday, I wanted to recreate it. It’s not a secret; I asked what she loved about it and what she would change so I could make her the perfect cardigan.
About the Fabric
3 yards Manhattan Blue, Soft Jacquard Knit from Boho Fabrics
- Horizontal Stretch: 100%
- Vertical Stretch: 50%
- Weight: 11 oz
- Width of Fabric: 52-54″
- Contents: Tencel/Polyester/Spandex
Mom’s Wishlist
- navy blue
- roomy
- thigh length
- pockets
- preferably no hem band
Based on the above, I went on a hunt for a pattern that would be close enough to what she currently has and found the Wardrobe By Me: Balloon Cardigan. It has the round neckline, button-up front, drop shoulders, and oversized silhouette I needed. From that base, I figured I could
- lengthen as needed
- mash in some welt pockets
- use snaps instead of buttons
I thought it would be so much easier than my last project. Until I messed up on step 1 which then revealed I messed up cutting. [palm, meet face]
Pattern Options and Changes
- size 12
- lengthened bodice and front bands by 6″
- self-drafted hem band and did not gather bodice
- modified cuffs to 2″ long
- reshaped sleeves to taper into cuffs without gathering
- self-drafted welt pockets using this helpful video
- Important tip: when slipping the welt into the hole, slip it down into the pocket. The welt attaches to the bottom of the pocket opening.
The Sideways
I didn’t read through the instructions first, so I just dove right into step 1 which was for the v-neck, NOT the round neck. Meaning I ended up sewing the front bands to the back neckband. I unpicked and salvaged the front bands at least, then re-cut the back neckbands. Then I discovered I didn’t cut the front bands long enough. I didn’t realize I needed some extra length to them, so when I was lengthening the bodice, I matched the band pieces up to the bodice pieces and made them the same length.
Sigh.
So I had to use a hem band to compensate.
My mistakes continued when I used knit interfacing. Knit interfacing on knit fabric does not mix with snaps. Stretch in any direction will cause the fabric to eventually distort and the snap to pull out. Thankfully, I tested the snaps on scrap pretty vigorously and discovered this, so I could pivot to buttons, which are cute square buttons, but make the whole thing look sloppy when they twist even slightly.
About the Pattern
Instructions are clean with helpful illustrations. I did not like that some steps were mashed together though, so skimming means you could easily miss different things—like finishing the neckband and front bands. I’m not a fan of how those are finished anyway; just folding the excess over and stitching it down doesn’t seem very refined.
On the plus side, I have officially made my first welt pockets and they turned out nice—even if they are a bit of a pain.
Notes for Next Time
Now that she’s tried it on, I can see the adjustments I want to make fit-wise:
- Definitely use snaps. Will require non-stretch interfacing along the front plackets.
- Sleeves need to be much more roomy. I could probably get away with adding 1.5″ to the cuff circumference, and 2 or 3 inches to the sleeve circumference all the way down
- I might want to use the next size or two up for more room around the neck and shoulders
- The length is good as is. It will look better hemmed instead of the hemband. No need to include the length of the hemband.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | seams |
| overedge (C) | 2 | 0 | 3.5 | blue tip | 4 | collar understitch |
| overedge (C) | 2 | 1 | 3.5 | blue tip | 4 | front band topstitch |
| adjustable edge (SE#7) | 0 | 3.5 | 3.5 | blue tip | 4 | hem band topstitch |
| adjustable edge (SE) | 0 | 0 | 3.5 | blue tip | 4 | welt pocket opening |
| zipper (E): left | 0 | 0 | 3.5 | blue tip | 4 | welt pocket sides |
| overedge (C) | 0 | 3.5 | 3.5 | blue tip | 4 | welt pocket topstitch |
| button (T) | 6 | 5.5 | n/a | blue tip | 4 | buttons |
| buttonhole (R) | 22 | 5 | 0.7 | blue tip | 4 | buttonholes |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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