Tori Cold Shoulder Cinched Top

I am loving the possibilities with all the options on this pattern, most especially the combination of cinched sides and puff sleeves with long cuffs. Gives it such visual interest while still maximizing comfort.

About the Fabric

2 yards Marble Light Gray. Brushed Ribbed Sweater Knit from Boho Fabrics

  • Contents:: Rayon/Poly/Span
  • Weight: 10 oz.
  • Horizontal Stretch: 110%
  • Vertical Stretch: 60%

This fabric is everything you would imagine falling into a fluffy white cloud to be. So fluid, so soft, so fuzzy on the back, with a solid weight: not too thick, and definitely not flimsy.

Being as fluid as it is, the neckline turned out a lot more relaxed than I was envisioning. It was supposed to be a mock neck but didn’t quite make it into that silhouette. No matter; I still love it.

About the Pattern

Petite Stitchery: Tori Crop/Top/Dress

This is my first Tori and it has left me wondering why I haven’t ventured into more PSCO patterns yet. This pattern is jam-packed with options! Different necklines, sleeves, sleeve lengths, bodice lengths, side finishes, open back, built-in bra… This pattern would work in every season in a crazy variety of fabrics. I’m already envisioning a fun crop-length layering piece in black rib knit: cinched sides, mock neck, either sleeveless or short sleeve or long sleeve. Would pair really well over a dress!

The pattern instructions are really well done. With so many options, it would be SO easy to get lost, but they flow really well! Having suffered through patterns with tons of options and poorly written instructions, I can say it was such a relief to not flip all over the place trying to orient myself. Well done.

About This Make

  • size M
  • top length
  • long puff sleeve
  • cold shoulder
  • mock neck
  • cinched sides

What I Did Differently

  • I did not like what was happening while I was fitting the picot lace around the shoulder opening using the suggested measurement. So I abandoned the pattern instruction on the lace measurement and eyeballed it. I imagine the stretch and looser recovery of the rib knit resulted in some relaxing along that raw edge. In the end, the lace details turned out flawlessly.

Notes for Next Time

  • I didn’t stretch the sleeves to anchor them at the indicated cold-shoulder marks. That makes the cold shoulder lay loosely against my arm. Next time, I’d like to anchor them where marked for a little more negative ease.
  • Toying with the idea of lengthening the bodice, but I’m not sure. I don’t want too many cinch-wrinkles bunching up around my torso.
  • Lengthen the neckband for a true mock neck. Use Dandelion Tee for reference.

Project Settings

Sewing Machine vs. Serger

Sewing Machine Serger
  • everything else
  • sleeve side seams

Sewing Machine Settings

Presser Foot Stitch# Stitch Width Stitch Length Needle Top Thread Tension Application
standard zig-zag (A) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 seams / shoulder elastic attach
applique (F) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 cold shoulder band construction
standard zig-zag (A) 0 3.5 3 blue tip 4 side seams
1/4 0 5.5 3 blue tip 4 side channels
overedge (C) 6 5.5 3 blue tip 4 cold shoulder band edge finish
standard zig-zag (A) 0 3.5 5 blue tip 2 gathers
adjustable edge (SE#6) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 shoulder elastic topstitch
1/4 0 4.5 3.5 blue tip 4 cinch ties

Serger Settings

Stitch Name 4-thread overlock
Needles R, L
Finger B
Threads 4
Tension Left Needle 4
Tension Right Needle 4
Tension Upper Looper 4
Tension Lower Looper 4
Cut Width 6
Stitch Length 2.5
Differential 1.0
Application seams

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Posted in Project Recaps, Project Reviews, Sewing • December 7, 2024 | No Comments»

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