Behold Tori version 2 with an actual mock neck (which is actually tipping over the edge of turtleneck, I think.) I overcompensated for the stretch on my last version without considering the reduced stretch of this fabric on this version.
Stretch likes to bite me in face a lot.
About the Fabric
2 yards Wine/Grey Streaks Brushed Back Sweater Knit from Cali Fabrics
- Fabric Content: Poly/Spandex
- Fabric Width: 60″
- Weight: 250 GSM Midweight
- Horizontal Stretch: 50%
- Vertical Stretch: 25%
A designer deadstock sweater knit, this fabric has a brushed back, great recovery, and is a perfect midweight. Not too bulky when sewn up, but substantial enough to work well in form-fitting silhouettes. And what a difference it made in the fit and feel of this same pattern I just made. That’s not something that surprises me, but it was unexpected because I guess I just didn’t pay attention to the 60%/35% less stretch. Was too excited to make the thing.
About This Make
Petite Stitchery: Tori Cinched Top // my second version
- size M
- long puff sleeve
- top length
- cinched sides
- mock neck, lengthened using my Dandelion Tee single turtleneck as a guide
Notes for Next Time
- If using a fabric with similar stretch to this one, consider sizing up, or at least lengthen the shoulder seams a tad. They look and feel a smidge too short on this one.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | seams |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 3 | blue tip | 4 | side seams |
| 1/4 | 0 | 5.5 | 3 | blue tip | 4 | side channels |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 3 | blue tip | 2 | gathers |
| 1/4 | 0 | 4.5 | 3.5 | blue tip | 4 | cinch ties |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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