It took a whole lot of fabric tetris, but I eked possibly my new favorite bolero out of some leftover fabric.
I had to transfer 2″ of length from the sleeves to cuffs, and cut half the bodice band out of another leftover rib knit—which also required sewing two scraps together to make one continuous piece to accommodate the width of the band. In the end, the contrasting fabric adds a little something I really like, AND I was able to keep the entire right side made out of the gray rib as I originally wanted. And I so wanted a bolero made out of this fabric. It is unbelievably soft and drapey and just the right weight.
About the Fabrics
Main: Marble Light Gray. Brushed Ribbed Sweater Knit from Boho Fabrics
- Contents: Rayon/Poly/Span
- Weight: 10 oz.
- Horizontal Stretch: 110%
- Vertical Stretch: 60%
One of my favorite ever sweater knits I’ve bought, I had to use what was left from my Tori top. It’s just too good to waste.
Contrast: Marble Black. Brushed Ribbed Sweater Knit from Boho Fabrics
- Weight: 10 oz.
- Horizontal Stretch: 120%
- Vertical Stretch: 60%
- Rayon/Poly/Spandex Blend
Leftover from one of my Rock and Republic sweaters and a GG Vneck Dolman I apparently never posted about, this rib knit has a very similar feel to the main fabric, it just feels lighter/thinner despite the same weight. Turns out it was the perfect contrast here.
About the Pattern
This is my self-drafted Ambiance Bolero, replicated from a store-bought bolero I have loved greatly and love even more now that I can make my own. Already planning an all-black DBP version; it’s such a great layering piece.
What I Did Differently
- I had already adjusted my pattern from my last version to slightly widen the sleeves.
- Temporarily shifted 2″ of length from the sleeves to the cuffs to make the pattern pieces fit on my leftover scraps.
- Cut half the band lengthwise out of the contrast fabric and sewed it to the main fabric to make the full pattern piece.
Notes for Next Time
- I’m still curious about curving the back bodice bottom seam, but I pause because that could result in extra fabric due to a longer seam and I’m not so sure I want that.
- Toying with the idea of widening the front bodice pieces to get the band to sit higher up along my shoulder. I’ll have to double check how it’s laying on my original DBP version to see if it’s the pattern or the fabric being the culprit.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
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Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | seams |
| overedge (C) | 6 | 6 | 3.5 | blue tip | 4 | seam finish |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 3.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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