Hail sweater weather! The season of brushed sweater knits and ribbed knits and cozy fabrics—my favorites. I have thusly noticed a distinct lack of basic fitted turtlenecks in my wardrobe with which to layer things: blazers, dresses, pinafores, vests, and such. How dumb, since I can sew and there’s really no excuse other than I just haven’t gotten around to it.
So I got myself around to it yesterday using a variety of ribbed knits.
About the Fabrics
Light Lilac 9×4 Brushed Rib Knit Fabric
- Weight: 10.5 oz
- Horizontal Stretch: 100%
- Vertical Stretch: 50%
- Contents: Poly, Rayon, Spandex Blend
Very stretchy and soft with a yummy brushed interior.
- Contents: 83% Polyester, 14% Rayon, 3% Spandex
- Weight: 12 oz
- Horizontal Stretch: 75%
- Vertical Stretch: 50%
As I do, I failed to note the lower horizontal stretch on this. Ideally, I should have accounted for it and sized up a smidgen, but I didn’t. It still works, but definitely do not style the hair before putting this shirt on.
Marble Ice 9×4 Brushed Rib Knit Fabric
- Weight: 9.5 oz
- Horizontal Stretch: 100%
- Vertical Stretch: 50%
- Contents: Poly, Rayon, Spandex Blend
Leftover from my favorite Ginger Dress. I adore this fabric and keep thinking about getting more. A little on the sheer side, so this will likely feature in layered outfits more than anything. Stretchy and soft like the lilac fabric above.
About the Makes
I dug out my Dandelion Tee + Xpack pattern from Millicent Joy Patterns. (Apparently you can get this for free now. GO! There’s a thousand combinations of glorious things you can make out of it!) I dusted off my customized pattern pieces I had used to make a gray fitted turtleneck a while ago—which I apparently never posted about.
- slim fit
- high neckline
- hemmed shirt
- graded between sizes 0 and 3
- 0 at neck
- 2 at shoulder armscye
- 3 at bottom armscye
- 2 at waist
- 3 at hem
- size 2 sleeves
- size 0 turtleneck collar
- single fold on black and marble ice
- double fold on lilac
- self-drafted 3″ cuffs
It’s such a great feeling putting on something made to fit your body. Fitted rib knit sweaters off the rack are usually a miss in some form: sleeves too short, too tight, bodice too short, baggy in some places and tight in others… I do not miss that crapshoot. With the power of sewing comes a tailored fit and freedom to choose your own fabrics and colors. Worth it.
Notes for Next Time
- Pay attention to stretch percentages. That is all.
- Oh, and I probably have to unpick and redo the neck on the black version. It puckered.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | hem |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | superstretch |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 3 |
| Tension Left Needle | 3 |
| Tension Right Needle | 2.5 |
| Tension Upper Looper | — |
| Tension Lower Looper | 0.5 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 3.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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