I made this Bedight Bolero to pair with my latest Ava Sundress and it turned out pretty awesome but it’s got a different vibe than it had in my head. I do love it though! If I were to list statement pieces I’ve made, I’d say it sits right at the top of that list. Naturally, I had to put my own spin on it, so I lengthened it and added some darts to the back. Here’s how!
About This Make
Bedight Bolero by George + Ginger
- size 8
About the Fabric
Main: Floral White Snake, Woven (Boho Fabrics)
- Weight: 13 oz
- Horizontal Stretch: 10%
- Vertical Stretch: 0%
- Contents: 97% Cotton, 3% Spandex
This is a very structured, fairly heavyweight woven fabric with just the slightest bit of stretch along the crossgrain which is ideal for a little bit of give in a woven garment—especially one like this. Very easy to work with since it’s so stable.
Lining: Dusty Pink. Silk Crepe de Chine Woven Fabric (Boho Fabrics)
- Weight: 3 oz
- Horizontal Stretch: 0%
- Vertical Stretch: 0%
- Contents: 100% Silk
Super lightweight with that grainy “crepe-y” texture. I’ve never used crepe de chine as a lining but I read that it performs really well in that application. It’s shifty as lightweight fabrics are, and has a very fluid drape. I haven’t worn this for an extended period of time so I can’t speak into that, but it feels good against the skin.
Notions
- clasp fasteners instead of buttons
- interfacing (collar and “button” areas)
What I Did Differently
- added 6″ to the back
- redrew the front to compensate for added length in back
- added two back darts for shaping
- Despite the dire warning to not skip it, I did not staystitch anything
- I added interfacing to the collar for some extra oomph
- Hand-sewed the clasps.
My Modification Deets
- First, I made a muslin using just the sleeves and bodice to gauge fit and length. The fit felt good, and I decided to add 6″ to the length.
- I redrafted the back bodice by adding 6″ to the bottom. Pretty simple since the back is just straight lines at the sides and bottom. The photo shows the original pattern laid under my redrafted version.
- I redrafted the front bodice by extending the side seams 6″ to match the back bodice. Then I used my vary form curve and some french curves to redraw the front contour. The photo shows the original pattern laid under my redrafted version.
- I made a second muslin with my new bodice pieces. I skipped the sleeves on this muslin.
- Using my mannequin, I pinched out the excess fabric in the back to get an idea of what size to make my darts. I combined it with this super helpful video from Lifting Pins and Needles. Here are my notes/measurements in case they help:
- Sewed the darts on my muslin and tried it on. Turned out pretty well so I moved on to make my final garment.
Notes for Next Time
- Maybe figure out if the upper area of my darts need some adjustment to lay more flat.
- Hand-sew clasps. I used my machine for the outer anchor point on each clasp piece and then hand-sewed the other anchor points. I should have hand-sewn everything to make it look neater.
- Notch differently. The seam allowance notches around the curve in the front are showing and making the curve angular instead of smooth for some reason.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 2 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | darts |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 5 | 90/14 | 4 | baste |
| 1/4" | 1 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | topstitch |
| button foot (T) | 6 | 5 | drop feed | 90/14 | 4 | clasp |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 5 | 65/9 | 4 | lining |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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