Saw this fabric, loved it, and heard it screaming to be an M7950 maxi dress.
About the Fabric
MAIN: 4 yards Charcoal And White Vertical Floral Stripe Embroidered Midweight Chambray from Cali Fabrics
- FABRIC CONTENT: 100% Cotton
- FABRIC WIDTH: 52″
- WEIGHT: 150 GSM Light Midweight
- STRETCH: None
This adorable designer deadstock has quite a different feel than the chambray I used on my first M7950. Light and airy and a little bit sheer, the embroidery details on this are what caught my eye. There will be no fading flowers on this fabric!
POCKETS: Pink and White Chevron Charmeuse Satin Print from Cali Fabrics
- FABRIC CONTENT: 100% Polyester
- FABRIC WIDTH: 60″
- STRETCH: None
Nothing beats some silky smooth satin pockets.
SKIRT LINING: Bemberg Super Fine Lining from Wawak
- MATERIAL: Rayon
- Width: 60″
Not only does Bemberg look good, it also has many unique qualities that make it perhaps the most comfortable lining fabric available.
- round fibers feel smooth
- breathable
- moisture-control
- heat-releasing capabilities
- helps dispel static cling due to the fabric’s high water content and low friction
BODICE LINING: some gray woven remnant from Joann’s that I’ve been whittling away at for eons. Not sure what it is, but it’s smooth and drapey and has some lovely heathering.
About This Make
- size 12 graded to 14 at waist and below
- shortened shoulder straps by 1.25″
- added semi-circle bra pad inserts
- lengthened skirt by 8″
About the Pattern
Not my favorite instructions but not the worst; there’s only one part that’s a little tricky to wrap your head around, and I took photos of it this time.
The key part with the skirt facing after pinning the bodice to the skirt is to fold the facing over so the right side of it lays against the right side of the skirt with the bodice sandwiched between.
What I Did Differently
- I had to include a skirt lining on this one due to the sheerness of the chambray. It was easy enough:
- Cut lining pieces for the front and back skirt pieces at the length for View A/B. Narrow-hemmed them and basted them to the main fabric, then just treated the combined fabrics as one piece.
- Seems a little dumb to gather the skirt before attaching the skirt facing, so I flip-flopped those steps.
- Made a larger hem than on my daisy dress.
- Last step was tacking the bra cups in place.
Notes for Next Time
- I keep flirting with the idea of doing the tie shoulder straps, but I think I keep shelving that for the ability to layer. Since this is (mostly) work-friendly, I will most definitely have to layer, both for warmth and probably because it’s a little too strappy for wandering around the office.
- Nothing else! This is one of my favorite things to make for so many reasons: it’s actually pretty simple to sew, it’s unbelievably comfortable, it’s cute, and it creates an opportunity for much woven fabric to shine.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
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Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 1 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | seams |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 5 | 90/14 | 4 | baste |
| adjustable edge (SE#3) | 1 | 0 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | understitch |
| adjustable edge (SE#7) | 0 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | hem |
| overedge (C) | 2 | 0 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | lining hem |
| button (T) | 6 | 4.5 | -- | 90/14 | 4 | buttons |
| buttonhole (R) | 18 | default | default | 90/14 | 4 | buttonholes |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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