I wasn’t expecting this to turn out wearable after I forgot to slash and spread the bodice before cutting. Luckily, I was able to salvage it by cannibalizing some of the side seam for gathers along the armscyes, which allowed enough stretch to be able to wear it.
So even though I wasn’t planning on this being a toile, that’s where I landed. I’m usually too optimistic when it comes to trying something new the first time; I dive right in to what I think is going to be the final. I must learn my lesson and actually test things.
About This Make
It began with this inspo photo:
I used So Sew English’s Catalina Tank as a base and modified it:
- redrew side seam to extend out 24″ from bottom of armscye at a right angle (although the fabric wasn’t wide enough to use the full 24″ extension so I shortened it a few inches.)
- straightened the bottom hem and extended out to match the new length of the side seam
That was it, but I should have done more:
- slash and spread the neckline and armscyes to make allowance for gathers
Garment Details
- Shelf bra and bodice are size XS
- Used my self-drafted fabric band for the shelf bra instead of elastic.
- Straps are 1″ shorter than the original pattern.
About the Fabric
Bra: 1 yard White Midweight Nylon Spandex from Cali Fabrics
- FABRIC CONTENT: 91% Nylon/9% Spandex
- FABRIC WIDTH: 60″
- WEIGHT: Midweight
- STRETCH: 4-way 100%
Nylon spandex (popularly called swim fabric) is perfect for fitted garments when you want an ultra-smooth, cool hand. It dries quickly and feels amazing. I have plenty left over to try my final version of this project.
Bodice: 2 yards White Chiffon Solid from Cali Fabrics
- FABRIC CONTENT: 100% Polyester
- FABRIC WIDTH: 60″
- WEIGHT: Lightweight
- STRETCH: None
Can’t go wrong at less than $5/yard! This turned out to be a more stable chiffon than others I’ve used in the past, which made it nicer to work with. But chiffon is chiffon. You must approach it fully expecting it to drive you crazy. There wasn’t a lot of complexity to this garment though, so it actually didn’t ping my murder meter at all.
Trim: 10 Yards White and Peach 1/2″ Stretch Lace from Sew Sassy
I bought four yards of 3″ wide venice lace trim from Surge Fabrics, but turns out four yards isn’t enough for this project. They also didn’t send a continuous cut 🙄. Since this make turned into a toile, I used some picot lace trim I had on hand from some underwear experiments.
Sew Sassy needs a major overhaul of their website, but their lace trim selection is worth the struggle.
How I Did the Corners
Because “I kind of folded it back on itself” tells you literally nothing, here’s a picture:
Notes for Next Time
- Maybe hunt down a sheer knit fabric for the bodice.
- Slash and spread to make allowance for gathers.
- If the trim has stretch, be very careful that it doesn’t stretch when attaching to the woven bodice or it will cause puckering along the hem.
- Double-check the orientation of the bra when attaching the bodice so when you turn the whole tank right side out, the right side of the bra is facing outward against the backside of the bodice.
- Buy at least 6 yards of trim…maybe 8 to be safe.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | knit seams |
| applique (F) | 0 | 3.5 | 3.5 | blue | 4 | trim attach |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 5 | 75/11 | 4 | baste for gathers |
| applique (F) | 0 | 3.5 | 2.4 | blue tip | 4 | strap anchors |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 2.5 |
| Tension Right Needle | 2.5 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 3 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 3 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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