I must pack light for motorcycle trips, which means having a comfortable layering piece to pair with a jacket (considering Itch to Stitch’s Delware jacket) and leggings as my single, versatile casual outfit. I wanted something with more interest than a plain tank, so I landed here with Pamela.
About the Fabric
White Paint Strokes on Black Double Brushed Poly/Spandex Knit from Cali Fabrics
- FABRIC CONTENT: 95% Polyester/5% Spandex
- FABRIC WIDTH: 60″
- WEIGHT: Light Midweight (Around 5.4oz)
- STRETCH: 4-way 125% Horizontal, 25% Vertical
What a fun print on one of the most versatile fabrics ever. I ordered like four yards of this stuff with a project in mind that I might be pivoting on, so I’m sure my blog will be featuring this fabric several more times in the future.
It is everything DBP should be: soft, light, fluid, easy to work with. I even used it for the neckbands and armbands when I normally try to avoid DBP for that, but it worked out really well on this top. I think a fabric with more recovery would have been frustrating to sew and too snug. Which means I’m altering my perception of DBP for bands: sometimes it works! I think the key is avoiding it in areas of stress where it will stretch a lot (example: Starstruck.)
About the Pattern
- size S graded to XS at waist and out to S at hem
- top length
- sleeveless
- sweetheart neckline
This pattern is packed with features from different necklines to different sleeves to different lengths. There’s a deep well of ideas to explore with this one.
The pattern instructions are very nicely done. They walk you through each option clearly so you don’t get lost nor need to bounce back and forth to orient yourself.
There are also many helpful tips. For example, straight stitching the corners of the neckline on the bodice and then straight stitching the neckband to the bodice at the corners before fully attaching the neckband. I’ve never done a sweetheart neckline before, but now I know it’s essentially sewing three v-necks on one neckband. And v-necks aren’t the most forgiving necklines.
I would easily recommend this pattern to anyone at any skill level.
What I Did Differently
- Nothing, really. I was a good sewist and didn’t deviate from the instructions. There wasn’t really a need to.
Notes for Next Time
- Definitely take the extra time and care around the neckband corners as I did this time. It’s worth it to avoid mistakes.
- This plus bishop sleeves plus tunic length would make a cute top for fall or winter.
- I wonder about lowering the neckline; it seems to sit just a smidge high for my taste. I’m not 80 years old yet; I can shave off a bit of modesty.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | seams/hem |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 1 | 3.5 | 3.5 | blue tip | 4 | neckband corner stitch |
| overedge (C) | 6 | 5.5 | 3 | blue tip | 4 | neckband finish |
| adjustable edge (SE#4) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | topstitch |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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