Petal Top in Rayon Spandex Jersey

Rolling out the summer makes with my first Petal Top. I was drawn to this because of the forgiving fit and visual interest of the front overlap.

About This Make

  • size SM
  • sleeveless

About the Fabric

Mulberry & Ash Khaki Rayon Spandex Jersey

  • Fabric Content: 96%Rayon/4%Spandex
  • Fabric Width: 58/60″
  • Fabric Weight: 200gsm
  • Fabric Stretch: 50% horizontal/ 50% vertical
  • Suggested Care: Machine wash cold, tumble dry low

I hopped on the pre-order bandwagon with this fabric. I really like the drape and opaqueness. Light, drapey fabrics like this can often feel pretty flimsy and be more sheer than one might want, but these don’t suffer from either of those problems. I was surprised by the recovery. Easy to sew, too.

About the Pattern

This is a pretty straightforward sew. Bands and bindings are the most time-consuming part. I was this close to sewing the back bodice to the wrong side of the front. had it all pinned and in my serger when I realized it didn’t seem quite right. Close call, that!

I didn’t make a toile, so I have adjustments for if I ever make another version of this.

What I Did Differently

  • I skipped all the basting stitches.
  • I (accidentally) used a straight stitch when hemming the overlapping petals. No harm though; it doesn’t really need to stretch there.

Notes for Next Time

  • Drop armscye. I don’t like how tight they sit. Or maybe I size the whole thing up to Medium. It might be laying more snug than I anticipated around the bust.
  • Drop neckline or convert to v-neck. I don’t like round necklines, and this one is made worse by sitting so high up.

 

Project Settings

Sewing Machine vs. Serger

Sewing Machine Serger
  • everything else
  • bodice shoulder seams
  • bodice side seams

Sewing Machine Settings

Presser Foot Stitch# Stitch Width Stitch Length Needle Top Thread Tension Application
standard zig-zag (A) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 seams
overedge (C) 6 5.5 3.5 blue tip 4 edge finish
overedge (C) 2 0.5 3.5 blue tip 4 petal hem
adjustable edge(SE#5) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 topstitch

Serger Settings

Stitch Name super stretch
Needles R, L
Finger B
Threads 3
Tension Left Needle 2
Tension Right Needle 2
Tension Upper Looper
Tension Lower Looper 1
Cut Width 6
Stitch Length 2.5
Differential 1.0
Application seams

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Posted in Project Recaps, Project Reviews, Sewing • May 22, 2023 | No Comments»

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