Replicating an Off-the-Rack Bolero

I’m calling it my Ambiance Bolero, which sounds way more original than it is. The tag on my store-bought bolero that I replicated says Ambiance. So why fight it?

I wear my off-the rack version of this so often! It pairs so well with so many things, and I’ve wanted a new one for a long time. It’s still in good shape except for a little staining. The sleeves on it were also not quite comfortable for me: a little too short, and hemmed.

So for creating my own version, I of course modified it for cuffs. Sleeve cuffs eat sleeve hems for lunch. I won’t be convinced otherwise.

About the Fabric

This is a strike-off sew for Boho Fabrics using their off-white double brushed poly. It’s the perfect fabric for this project, and I’m not just saying it to promote. It’s exactly what I needed for tackling this remake. Buttery soft as DBP is known to be, easy to work with, and a decent weight keeps it from being sheer.

Off-White Double Brushed Poly

  • 8 oz.
  • 125% horizontal stretch
  • 75% vertical stretch

About This Make

  • mostly self-drafted
  • used sleeves from Dandelion Tee / size 2 / 21″ long
  • drafted cuffs at 4″

(Curious about the dress? It’s a pattern mash-up that also uses double brushed poly.)

How I Replicated the Thing

I very unscientifically and inaccurately traced it.

  • Turned it inside out.
  • Starting with the bodice back, I measured from side seam to side seam to get the width of the back. Knew that was going to be a straight line, so I started with that and divided it in half, then drew the vertical center of the back at a right angle.
  • From there, it was doing my best to trace the shape of the short side seam, the armscye, and the neckline.
  • I ultimately ditched the traced armscye and decided to mash in the sleeves from Millicent Joy’s Dandelion Tee (available free with tons o’ options) since it had the fit I was looking for.
  • Once I had the armscye and sleeves all set, for the (tiny) front bodice pieces, I measured how wide the center of the piece was on my original, made a mark on my tracing, and used my vary form curve to draw in the curved line opposite the armscye.
  • The band was easy since it’s a simple rectangle: just folded it to lay flat and measured.

And here’s where I landed for the bodice pieces. The yellow lines were my tracings and the pencil lines are my final lines.

Notes for Next Time

  • I already tweaked the pattern to widen the sleeves and cuffs a smidge.
  • Maybe the bottom line of the back bodice could use a slight convex curve?

Project Settings

Sewing Machine vs. Serger

Sewing Machine Serger
  • band construction
  • cuff construction
  • cuff attach and finish
  • everything else

Sewing Machine Settings

Presser Foot Stitch# Stitch Width Stitch Length Needle Top Thread Tension Application
standard zig-zag (A) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 seams
overedge (C) 6 6 3 blue tip 4 cuff finish

Serger Settings

Stitch Name 4-thread overlock
Needles R, L
Finger B
Threads 4
Tension Left Needle 4
Tension Right Needle 4
Tension Upper Looper 4
Tension Lower Looper 4
Cut Width 6
Stitch Length 2.5
Differential 1.0
Application seams

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Posted in Project Recaps, Sewing, The Things I've Made • October 25, 2024 | No Comments»

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