Romy Bolero #3 brings you a better gathering experience. From version 1 which was the simple version with no gathers and no adjustments, to version 2 which was the gathered version that I lengthened, I think version 3 here is the sweet spot.
I did not like having gathers at both shoulders on my second version for several reasons:
- The added weight pulls the bolero forward.
- It’s really unnecessary because one gathered side is hidden under the other.
- Didn’t like how the extra bulk made the top layer lay.
So I wanted to try it again and eliminate the gathers on one side.
About the Fabric
Main: Black Midweight Stretch Ponte De Roma from Cali Fabrics
- FABRIC CONTENT: Poly/Rayon/Lycra
- STRETCH: 2-way
- WEIGHT: Midweight
Leftover from my ultra high-waisted pinafore pants. It sews so well; hemming a curve was a piece of cake. Didn’t even pin. It also drapes really beautifully at the gathers, plus it’s substantial enough for the collar to have some structure.
Sleeves: 1 yard 4×2, Black, Rib Knit from Boho Fabrics
- Contents: 95% Rayon, 5% Spandex
- Weight: 11 oz
- Width of Fabric: 63″
- Horizontal Stretch: 150%
- Vertical Stretch: 100%
The 11 oz. on this fabric was misleading. It’s quite thin and very drapey. I had originally intended to make the entire bolero out of this fabric until I discovered how it felt and hung. I used it for the sleeves, though—only because I didn’t have enough of the ponte for the sleeves. I like how it turned out with the mixed fabrics though.
About The Patterns
Romy Bolero // George and Ginger
The Romy Set comes with a variety of pieces you can make, including this bolero (lined, unlined, gathered, simple, long sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, short sleeve) and a tank (flowy, flowy dress length, fitted.) And as always, the instructions are very clear and easy to follow.
Thumbhole Cuffs // Sinclair Patterns
This particular version is actually really easy to construct, but the instructions don’t read that way. Here’s my attempt at simplifying:
- Birch cuffs use pieces 1 and 2.
- Fold piece 1 right sides together, matching long edges.
- Sew between the innermost circles. Cut the seam allowance up to the stitchline at these circles.
- Lay piece 1 flat with the seam centered and facing up. Open both short ends so you can see the right side of the fabric.
- Bringing the short ends together, fold the cuff in half.
- Match the open long edges, right sides together. The left edge above the seamline should match with the left edge below the seamline. Repeat with the right edges.
- Sew the left edges together from the end of the first seam down to the raw edge of the cuff. Repeat with the right edges.
- Turn right side out. Optional: sew a bar tack to reinforce the “V” where the fabric meets. This is the thumbhole opening.
- Set piece 1 aside.
- Fold piece 2 right sides together, matching long edges, and sew, creating a tube.
- Fold the tube over on itself, wrong sides together, matching raw edges.
- Slide piece 2 inside the open raw edges of piece 1, matching side seams, and pin.
- Sew or baste piece 1 to piece 2.
- Turn right side out.
- Repeat all the above for second cuff.
Specs for This Make
Romy
- size 8
- B cup
- unlined version
- +2″ to original sleeves
- lengthened 6″
Thumbhole Cuffs
- size 8
- Birch
What I Did Differently
- Shortened the sleeves by 4″ to compensate for thumbhole cuffs.
- Hemmed the bottom instead of binding.
- Only gathered ONE shoulder. Note: when arranging the layers to sew the shoulder seams, sandwich the gathered front piece in between the back and the ungathered front piece.
- To do this, I used one front piece from the simple bolero. I traced around the side seam, armscye, shoulder seam, neckline, and second shoulder seam, and then laid that tracing over the gathered pattern piece. I lined up the points at the end of the shoulder seam and the bottom of the side seam and then traced the curved hem so it would match the curved hem of the gathered pattern piece.
- Mixed the rib knit and ponte on the cuffs: made the inner cuff out of rib knit and the outer out of ponte.
Notes for Next Time
Can’t think of anything I would change.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | seams |
| overedge (C) | 6 | 5.5 | 3 | blue tip | 4 | edge finish |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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