It’s difficult to beat a good pair of linen pants. I love them for a flowy, casual vibe on a warm day. I have an ancient pair of off-the-rack linen pants that aren’t very comfortable, and every time I reach for them, I’m reminded to replace them with a custom-tailored me-made pair.
But alas, linen fabric is a woven and woven bottoms are quite fickle when it comes to fit in my world. Enter this stretch linen from Surge Fabrics:
About the Fabric
2 yards of Dark Taupe Pylos Liknit from Surge Fabrics
- Fabric Content: 55% Rayon/45% Nylon
- Fabric Weight: 9 oz/linear yard
- Stretch: 50% horizontal/0 vertical
This fabric combines the most desirable elements of linen with the comfort and ease of a knit fabric. It is breathable, has beautiful drape and the washed/worn appearance that linen is known for. The fabric weight is quite versatile making it suitable for tops and dresses and even bottoms. —from Surge’s website
All that is definitely true, but I also found that the fabric “grows” with wear. By the end of the day, the fit is quite a bit looser than when you first put on the garment. I wasn’t expecting that, so when I wore these the first time, not only were my extra-long pant legs extra-extra-long, but my waistband was not waistbanding well at all. I had to constantly pull the pants up.
So…
I added a tie…
- I sewed two seams around the circumference of my waistband to create a channel.
- I cut one slit in the center front through the outer layer of fabric between the lines of stitching.
- I sewed a 50″ cord (cut along the cross-grain so there would be no stretch), fed it through the channel, and knotted the ends.
The next time I wore these went much better! They still grow throughout the day, but that waist tie makes all the difference in keeping them from heading south.
About This Make
Patterns for Pirates Cozy Pants
- size M
- 32″ inseam
- mid-rise at back and sides
- low-rise at front
- sewed at 1/4″ seam allowance
Notes for Next Time
- 32″ is a little extra long, even for me. I can probably shave off an inch.
- 1/4″ seam allowance might be unnecessary. The pattern calls for 1/2″ seam allowance. I’m on the fence about this though, because they’re sufficiently fitted around the hips when I first put them on.
- Add patch pockets.
- Maybe use an alternate fabric for the waistband: cotton lycra or some performance knit with good recovery. This would eliminate the need for the waist tie.
Project Settings
Serger |
Sewing Machine |
---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
Presser Foot |
Stitch# |
Width |
Length |
Needle |
Top Thread Tension |
Application |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
standard zig-zag (A) |
5 |
1.0 |
4 |
blue tip |
4 |
seams, hems, cord channel |
Serger Settings
Stitch |
Needles |
Finger |
Threads |
Tension LN |
Tension RN |
Tension UL |
Tension LL |
Cut Width |
Stitch Width |
Differential |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
super stretch |
R, L |
B |
3 |
3 |
2.5 |
— |
0.5 |
6 |
2.5 |
1.5 |
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