The Perfect Summer Dress: Little Black Bra and Mix it Up Mash-Up

I’ve had this project lurking in my head for quite a while. It finally happened thanks to a $25 gift card I won from So Sew English for Me Made May (thanks to this dress.) I was poking around their DBP stock and found this cute gray “ditsy” floral that immediately brought this Little Black Bra and Mix it Up mash-up idea back to mind.

About the Fabric

2 yards Grey/Pink Ditsy Floral Double Brushed Poly from So Sew English

  • 96% POLYESTER / 4% SPANDEX
  • Medium weight
  • Horizontal stretch: ~100%
  • Vertical stretch: minimal

Not only do I love the print and the colors on this fabric, it manages to have a surprising sheen to it that makes it look more satin-like than brushed poly. It’s so beautiful.

About This Make

Top: George and Ginger Little Black Bra (Free pattern with code from YouTube video)

  • size 10
  • slim band (-3″ circumference)
  • strap placement 3″ from side seams
  • straps cut at 1.25″ wide
  • final strap length ~10″
  • +1/4″ knit elastic to straps

Skirt: George and Ginger Mix It Up Dress

  • size 4
  • full circle skirt
  • +1″ length

This make is based heavily on the nighties I made. I used the same exact treatment for the bra with the exception of adding elastic to the straps. I knew I would want a little more reinforcement for something I’d be wearing in public, and double-brushed poly has a bit of a looser recovery than something like an athletic knit and has the potential to grow during the day.

What I Did Differently

  • So for the straps, I constructed them as usual and then fed the elastic through them with a safety pin. It took a little wrestling to get the fabric to lay flat over the elastic; with so much stretchiness between the fabric and the elastic, the fabric can get really bunched up.
  • I left the skirt unhemmed for now; I may or may not changed my mind about that depending on how it behaves, but I wore it all day today  and have no complaints.
  • I lined the bra and band.

Notes for Next Time

  • I tried understitching the neckline instead of topstitching and it did nothing. The lining was pulling to the front, so I topstitched and removed the understitching.
  • I need to get me some bra cups that are more subdued than the push-up ones I currently have. Them’s are a little over the top, so I skipped bra cups.
  • Turning the straps right side out was a little tight on my tube turner set. I might decrease the seam allowance on the straps to make that step a little easier

 

Project Settings

Sewing Machine vs. Serger

Sewing Machine Serger
  • darts
  • bra construction
  • straps
  • topstitching
  • skirt and bra attach

Sewing Machine Settings

Presser Foot Stitch# Stitch Width Stitch Length Needle Top Thread Tension Application
standard zig-zag (A) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 seams
standard zig-zag (A) 2 3.5 3.5 blue tip 4 darts
adjustable edge (SE#5) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 topstitch

Serger Settings

Stitch Name superstretch
Needles R, L
Finger B
Threads 3
Tension Left Needle 3
Tension Right Needle 2.5
Tension Upper Looper
Tension Lower Looper 0.5
Cut Width 6
Stitch Length 2.5
Differential 1.0
Application seams

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Posted in Free Patterns, Project Recaps, Sewing, The Things I've Made • June 30, 2022 | No Comments»

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